How to Repair Jewelry at Home

Jewelry can be just as expensive to repair as to buy. At a jewelry store, simple repairs to clasps and hinges cost upwards of $30 . There are a number of ways to fix jewelry and care for it so that it will have a long, beautiful life. This article will show you the basics of how to repair jewellery.

1

Assess the damage and material in need of repair. Depending upon the damage, some steps may not apply. Acquire the needed materials at a hobby shop or bead store.

2

Set up your small workshop on a table with ample space and light. Wear reading glasses or use a free-standing magnifying glass, if needed.

3

Position the necklace with the clasp end facing you. Open the jump rings. These are the 2 circles that link each side of the clasp to the chain; each of these rings contains a slit.

4

Hold the jump ring between your fingers. Place 1 set of needle-nosed pliers in your dominant hand, and clamp the pliers on 1 side of the jump ring's slit. The slit should be facing toward the ceiling. Pick up the second set of needle-nosed pliers in your other hand and clamp it on the other side of the slit. Open the slit wider by slowly pulling in opposite directions. Repeat on the other jump ring on the other side of the necklace.

5

Remove both sides of the old clasp if it is damaged. Slip the new jump rings and clasp onto the jump rings. Close gently with pliers, using the method you have just learned. You can use this method to repair clasps and chain links.

1

Assess where the hinge attaches. Save all original parts; they will be used to make a pattern for the new hinge.

2

Use a ball burr to grind off the head of the rivet where the hinge attaches with a wire. Make a divot into the bracelet or necklace, where the hinge is attached. Use a small steel punch to push out the pin. Use the ball burr to make the divot in the other side. You will reattach the new hinge to these divots.

3

Take the old spring to use as your pattern. Count the number of times the coil circles. Take an 8 inch (20.3 cm) piece of guitar string. Coil the guitar string around the pliers according to the number of times the original hinge was coiled. Use a heavy duty wire cutter to trim the excess guitar string. Further shape the coil according to the original hinge. Place it within the bracelet to ensure a good fit.

4

Choose a metal wire that fits through the bracelet's original divot holes. Use a torch to ball the bottom end of the wire. Use a steel block to hammer the wire flat.

5

Assemble the bracelet or necklace, placing the spring inside to make sure the sides fit together. Put the rivet through the coil. Check the coil tension. Cut the string with wire cutters, then hammer the rivet flat on the other side. Polish and buff.

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Become a Jewelry Designer, Why Not?!

Becoming a jewelry designer gives you the freedom to set your own schedule as well as let your creative juices flow. Your earning potential is endless, and the work that you do can be fun and exciting once you learn how to become a jewelry designer.

1

Start by checking out other people's work. This will help plant creative ideas in your head for your designs, and this can get you help you get started understanding what materials are used in jewelry.

• Hit the department stores, and check out what pieces are being sold by the major designers and labels. Take a look at their craftsmanship and see what materials are used for mass production.
• Look at boutiques. In boutique shops, you may find mass-produced pieces, but can also find unique pieces that the store may only carry one or two of.
• Go to your local art council's shop. This is where you can find the most unique pieces because the craftsmen make one-of-a-kind designs.

2

Think about what type of piece you want to create. Determine if you are into making bracelets, rings, earrings, necklaces, brooches or pins, belt buckles, or some other type of jewelry or a combination of a number of types.

3

Purchase your materials. These can include metal, gemstones, clay, natural things such as shell or wood, or beads.

4

Buy the equipment and tools that you need to create your pieces. These can include wire, pliers, solder tools, glue, buffers, kilns or ovens, etc.

5

Determine to whom you are planning to sell. Decide if you are wanting to mass market, sell to local shops, have jewelry parties or attend art fairs and events.

6

Work on your business basics, and create a business plan that lists start-up costs. This includes choosing your business name and obtaining, through your state's Department of Revenue, a resale tax number. In addition, open a bank account strictly for your business.

• If you sell in other states, obtain your sales tax permits for those states as well.

7

Choose a location or workspace to create your designs. Determine if you can create your designs in your own home or if you will need to rent a studio location.

8

Figure out your pricing and determine how you are going to display your jewelry.

9

Prepare your resume as well as your portfolio. This will include narrowing down your initial work to your best pieces, and choosing a simple way to show them.

10

Offer to do a project for someone or for a company. Let your work speak for yourself, and if the agreement is mutually agreeable or successful, consider future projects together.

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How to Know if Gold Is Fake or Real

1. Visual Inspection

The first thing to do to check if you have real gold is to look at it. Look for particular signs that point to real gold.

1

Inspect the piece for official markings. A stamp will indicate either fineness (1-999 or .1-.999) or karat (10K, 14K, 18K, 22K or 24K). A magnifying glass will make this easier.

• An older piece might not have a visible marking due to wear.
• Counterfeit pieces can often have a marking that appears authentic; more testing may be needed either way.

2 Look for noticeable discoloration. It is important to check for discoloration in areas that face constant friction (typically around the edges).

• If the gold seems to be wearing off and showing a different metal beneath it, you probably have a piece that is only gold plated.

2. Bite Test

We have all seen a movie where a prospector bites down on a piece of gold to test it. We also see Olympic athletes bite on their “gold” medal when they receive it. Whether that is of any use is another story altogether.

1

Bite down on your gold with moderate pressure.

2

Examine your gold for any markings. In theory, real gold will show indents from your teeth; deeper markings indicate purer gold.

• This is actually not a recommended test, as you can damage your teeth. Not to mention that lead is even softer than gold and gold-plated lead will appear to be gold when you bite it.

 3.Magnet Test

This is an easy test, but it’s not an all-encompassing or fool-proof way to determine whether your gold is real. Something as weak as a fridge magnet will not be useful, but stronger magnets that you can find in specialized hardware stores or in common objects such as women’s purse latches, children’s toys, or even in old unused hard drives will be strong enough to perform this test.

1

Hold a magnet up to the item. Gold is not a magnetic metal, so if it pulls towards, or sticks to the magnet, it’s fake. However, just because it doesn’t react to the magnet doesn’t mean it is real, as non-magnetic metals are used in counterfeit pieces as well.

3.Density Test

There are very few metals denser than gold. The density of pure 24K gold is about 19.3 g/ml, which is much higher than most other metals. Measuring the density of your items can help you determine if your gold is real. As a rule of thumb, the higher the density, the purer the gold. Make sure to perform the density test on gold that has no gemstones of any kind attached. See the warnings below for important information about the density test.

1

Weigh your piece of gold. A jeweler can normally do this for you for free if you don’t have your own scale. You will need the weight in grams.

2 Fill a vial with water.

• It’s helpful if the vial has millimeter markings on the side, since that will make it easier for you to read the measurements for this test.
• It doesn’t matter how much water you use as long as you don’t fill the vial to the top, since the water level will rise once you immerse the gold in it.
• It’s also important to note the exact amount of the water level before and after immersion.

3 Place your gold in the vial. Take note of the new water level and calculate the difference between those two numbers in millilitres.

4

Use the following formula to calculate density: Density = mass/volume displacement. A result close to 19 g/ml indicates either real gold, or a material with a density similar to gold. Here is an example calculation:

• Your gold item weighs 38 g and it displaces 2 milliliters of water. Using the formula of [mass (38 g)]/[volume displacement (2 ml)], your result would be 19 g/ml, which is very close to the density of gold.
• Bear in mind that different gold purity will have a different g/ml ratio:
• 14K – 12.9 to 14.6 g/ml
• 18K yellow – 15.2 to 15.9 g/ml
• 18K white – 14.7 to 16.9 g/ml
• 22K – 17.7 to 17.8 g/ml

4.Ceramic Plate Test

This is an easy way to tell if your gold is fool’s gold. Bear in mind that your item may end up scratched.

1. Find an unglazed ceramic plate to use. If you don’t have this, you can purchase a random piece of unglazed ceramic from a home improvement store.

2

Drag your item across the surface. A black streak means your gold is not real, whereas a gold streak indicates your item is genuine.

5. Nitric Acid Test

due to the difficulty is acquiring the acid, and the inherent safety risks of doing this in your home, it may be best to leave this test to a jeweler.

1

Place your piece of gold in a small stainless steel container.

2

Put a drop of nitric acid on your gold and watch for any resulting reaction to the acid.

• A green reaction indicates your item is either a base metal or gold plated. A gold reaction indicates your item is gold-plated brass.

A milk-colored reaction would indicate gold-plated sterling silver.

If there is no reaction, you mostly likely are dealing with real gold.

TIPS: 

• When we say 24kt or 24K gold jewelry, we mean that all the 24 parts in the gold are pure gold without traces of any other metals. This is considered 99.9 percent pure. 22K gold means that 22 parts of the jewelry are gold and the remaining 2 parts are some other metal. This is considered 91.3 percent pure. 18K gold means that 18 parts of the jewelry are gold and the remaining 6 parts are some other metal. This is equal to 75 percent pure. The purity goes down from there, with each karat equaling approximately 4.1625 percent.
• 24K is pure gold^[1] but generally too soft for use in jewelry or coins. Because of this, other metals are added for consistency and this makes for different densities.
• In gold that is less than 24K, the other alloys in the item give it hardness and color. We can state that 24K is the softest and 10K the hardest, because 10K would have 41.6 percent gold and the balance would be other metals, which are harder than gold. The color from the other metals enhances the beauty of the jewelry, such as you see with white gold, yellow gold, red gold, etc.
• Anything marked with GF means gold filled, which is actually filled gold. Divide by the number before the karat mark. Example... 1/20 14k GF is 1 part 14K gold on the outside of 19 parts of some other metal. So it is 5 o/o 14K gold and 95 o/o other metal.
• The markings are a bit different on gold jewelry made in Europe and indicate an item’s purity. The markings are typically three digits and are as follows:
  • 10K 417 marking: gold purity is 41.7 percent
  • 14K 585 marking: gold purity is 58.5 percent
  • 18K 750 marking: gold purity is 75 percent
  • 22K 917 marking: gold purity is 91.7 percent
  • 24K 999 marking: gold purity is 99.9 percent
• In Portugal, gold is typically 80% pure, or about 19.2K, and comes in three colors:
• Yellow - Comprised of 80% pure gold, 13% silver and 7% copper.
• Red - Comprised of 80% pure gold, 3% silver and 17% copper.
• Grey or white - Comprised of 80% pure gold alloyed with palladium and other metals; mostly nickel.
• WARNINGS:

• Warnings

  • These tests may not be able to differentiate solid gold from a tungsten plug covered by real gold.
  • Density Test Warning: The density test isn’t the most precise way to test whether gold is real, unless you know exactly what else is in your gold, and its associated density characteristics.
  • Density Test Warning: Due to the precise calculations needed to correctly perform the density test, unless you have a graduated vial that measures in milliliters and a precise scale, then the density test is very inexact.
  • Nitric Acid Test Warning: Nitric acid is highly corrosive. Precautions should be taken if it will be used for testing. The gold itself is safe, as it is insoluble in nitric acid however items that are not gold and are tested with this acid may be damaged in the process.
  • Density Test Warning: Many chunky looking pieces of jewelry are in fact hollow. If air is trapped in the piece, this WILL invalidate the density test, due to the fact that the gold will be lighter, while the volume remains, causing a smaller density. The density test is only valid for solid items, or for items from which all the air can be expelled by allowing water to fill the entire internal cavity. A small bubble of air left inside will result in an inaccurate result.

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How to Clean Gold Jewelry at Home

Method 1 of 5 .  Cleaning Jewelry with Dish Soap

1   Put a few drops of liquid dish detergent in a bowl of warm (not hot) water. Mix gently. Though ordinary tap water will work fine, for even better results, you can use sodium-free seltzer water or club soda. The carbonation in these liquids can help loosen accumulated dirt and debris.

(Don't use hot or boiling water), especially if your jewelry contains fragile precious stones. Some precious stones, like opals, can crack if subjected to rapid and drastic temperature changes.

2

Soak the gold jewelry in the solution. Allow the jewelry to sit in the water for about 15 minutes. As it soaks, warm soapy water will work its way into the cracks and crevices, loosening hard-to-reach buildups of dirt

3

Gently scrub the jewelry with a soft-bristle toothbrush Scrub each piece of jewelry individually, paying special attention to nooks and crannies where dirt may be hidden. Use a very soft brush - the softer the better. Stiff bristles can scratch the surface of your jewelry. If your jewelry is gold-plated (as opposed to solid gold), especially stiff bristles can even remove the gold layer entirely!

• Special brushes designed for this purpose are best, but most small, soft brushes (like, for instance, eyebrow brushes) will also work.

4

Rinse each piece in warm running water. A good rinsing will help remove lingering dirt that's been loosened by the action of your brush. Again, make sure the water isn't hot , especially if your jewelry contains fragile stones.

• If you're rinsing your jewelry in a sink, plug or cover the drain so that you don't accidentally lose your jewelry if it slips out of your hands. Alternatively, rinse your jewelry in a pasta strainer or metal coffee filter.

5

Blot dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the jewelry sit out on a towel to air dry completely before wearing it again. If your jewelry is still wet, wearing it can trap moisture against your skin, leading to minor skin irritation.

Method 2 of 5: Cleaning Jewelry with Ammonia

1

Know when to clean with ammonia. Ammonia is a powerful cleaner, but, chemically, it can be somewhat caustic. Avoid doing using ammonia to clean gold jewelry too often to prevent wear on your jewelry - ammonia is a good candidate for occasional (but not frequent) "deep cleans."

• Ammonia can damage certain materials often used in jewelry. Don't use ammonia when cleaning gold jewelry pieces that contain platinum or pearls.

2

Add one part ammonia to six parts water. Stir gently to ensure an even mixture.

3

Soak the jewelry in the mixture for no more than one minute. Don't let jewelry sit in the ammonia mixture for too long - as a strong base, ammonia can be slightly corrosive.

• To quickly remove all of the jewelry at once, use a kitchen strainer like you might use when cooking pasta. Either fish the jewelry out with a hand-held strainer or upend the bowl into a larger strainer in the sink.

4

Rinse the jewelry thoroughly under running water. Plug or cover the drain of the sink to prevent losing any precious jewelry that slips out of your hand. Alternatively, simply use the strainer you used to get your jewelry out of the ammonia.

5

Gently dry the jewelry with a soft polishing cloth. Allow jewelry to air dry on a towel completely before wearing it.

Method 3 of 5: Cleaning Jewelry with Glued-In Gemstones

1

Know which types of jewelry should be kept dry. Pieces of jewelry with  gemstone that are glued into their setting (like many earrings) should not be submerged in water. Warm water can loosen the glue, which can cause your gemstones to fall out, especially when subjected to a thorough brushing. For these types of jewelry, use a special cleaning method that avoids total submersion in water.

2

Wipe the jewelry with a wet, soapy cloth. Make a small quantity of dish soap solution as in Method One. Dip a soft, delicate towel in the solution and gently scrub your jewelry.

3

"Rinse" the jewelry with a cloth dampened with plain water. Gently dab a wet cloth onto the jewelry, taking care to soak up any leftover soap suds.

4

Lay or hang the pieces upside down after cleaning. Allow your jewelry to dry in this way. By letting your jewelry dry upside down, you allow any remaining moisture to drip out, ensuring it won't soak into the setting.

Method 4 of 5: Cleaning Jewelry with Toothpaste

1

Mix a small quantity of toothpaste and water. Squeeze about an inch of toothpaste into a bowl (or your palm!) and mix with a tablespoon or two of water to make a light paste. As a mild abrasive, toothpaste is good for loosening up grime that's accumulated on your favorite pieces of gold jewelry without scratching the jewelry.

• You can use this method for frequently-worn gold items that need a quick clean or when you don't have access to other cleaning materials (like when you're traveling.)

2

Scrub with a (soft-bristled) toothbrush. Use an old, soft-bristled toothbrush and toothpaste to gently scrub off grime. The toothpaste can be applied to a cloth to hand polish an item as well. If you're seeing scratches on your jewelry, it's probably the toothbrush, not the toothpaste - use as soft of brush as possible.

• Alternatively, simply scrub with undiluted toothpaste. This, however, can be harder to rinse out of small crevices in your jewelry.

3

Rinse generously in clean water. Just like when you rinse after brushing your teeth, you should rinse your jewelry to remove any loosened dirt or grime!

Method 5 of 5: Using Boiling Water

1

Know when boiling is appropriate. Gold itself can be boiled with no problems. However, boiling delicate gemstones (like opals, pearls, coral, and moonstones) can cause them to crack or become damaged - especially if the jewelry is cold before boiling. Boiling is also a bad idea for jewelry with glued-in gemstones, as it can loosen the glue. However, if you're looking to clean heavily-soiled jewelry made entirely out of gold or gold jewelry that contains "strong" gemstones (like diamonds), boiling is a great choice.

2

Bring water to a boil. You don't need to boil much water - just enough to submerge all of the jewelry in. As you're waiting for the water to boil, set your gold jewelry in a sturdy bowl or another vessel that won't be damaged by boiling water. Pyrex or metal cooking bowls/dishes are good choices.

• Arrange jewelry in the dish or bowl so that no piece of jewelry is covering up another piece - water should be able to reach every piece of jewelry.

3

Carefully pour the water over your jewelry. Be very careful not to spill or splash by pouring too rapidly - boiling water can cause serious burns. When all of the jewelry is completely submerged, you've added enough water.

4

Wait for the water to cool. When you can comfortably put your hands in the water, you can remove the jewelry. Follow a good boiling by scrubbing each piece of jewelry with a soft brush, then dabbing it dry with a soft towel and allowing it to sit and air-dry completely.

• Don't be afraid if the water appears dirty - this is good! As boiling water loosens the dirt, wax, grime, etc. that's built up on your jewelry, it may float to the surface of the water. The dirtier your water looks, the more dirt you've removed from your jewelry!

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